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The Ultimate Manual for Your Ark 550 Loader: Features, Specifications, and Troubleshooting



I need to likely flush again. If this were your FEL would you go with 10W-30 or AW Hydraulic? I have seen two manuals that indicate either and it seems like from what defed says it is the same system for both.




Ark 550 Loader Manual



Well great news. I was able to obtain copies of the loader manual from the fellow I bought it from. I contacted him and he got back to me that he thought hydraulic and he had copies of the manual for me. It is a comprehensive manual and even has break down for the hydaulic pump and controls with part numbers. Also dealer pricing from 1976. Really cool. The D series dealer cost in 1976 for a 550 was $616.35. The 48" bucket was $67.30


Awesome! The manual says it is for the ARK 550 for Wheel Horses and there is paperwork from 1976 with it so I think it is the original that came with it. It does say hydraulic so I am going to switch back and just stick with hydraulic. Hate to lose more oil but it was a good flush of dirt and dirty fluid anyway.


I noticed the pump sounded louder when I was dumping and lowering the loader bucket. So I tightened the belt off the PTO - no big change. I then noted that when lifting the bucket with gravel in it the pump was turning very slowly but full speed lowering. Well turns out the PTO clutch was slipping so I tightened the the clutch linkage by adjusting the turnbuckle.


I acquired an ARK 550 loader for my D-200. After I got it installed and tried to use it, the bucket cylinders would not hold the bucket in position with weight in the bucket. It appears that the cylinders need to be be rebuilt. I can move the cylinders and bucket up or down by pushing one way or the other. I assume the control valve is OK but don't know.


I had the same questions when I found my cylinders leaking on my new Ark loader. Here is a thread to my rebuild and it worked well. The only difference is I have retaining rings that need to be "peeled" out of mine but other members have reported theirs are different. Take a look and see if the thread helps.


Taking the cylinders off the loader was very easy. The tarp was a big help in dealing with the fluid leaking from the cylinders and the lines. I used a small ice tray to collect the leaking fluid. Less than a quart leaked out in total. The system holds about 6 to 7 quarts. A drift help to keep the cylinders from rolling all over the place while I was trying to drain them. Only a few basic tools are needed. After I got the cylinders off I found that one was so bad I could push it in and out with very little effort. I was not sure how bad the other one was so I decide to just rebuild the two bucket cylinders. I decided I would leave the loader cylinders alone for now. I got the cylinders cleaned up and put them in the back of my station wagon. On the way home I stopped at Mooradian's Hydraulics in Castelton, NY since I was told they would have the O rings. When I walked into their shop it looked like hydraulics heaven with all kinds of tubing and machinery all over the place. I asked if they had the O rings and they asked if I wanted to rebuild them myself. I said not particularly. They said they would take a look at them and to call the next morning, so I left the cylinders. I called the next morning around 10 AM and they said they were all done and the charge was $135 plus tax. I figured that was well worth not dealing with the mess and having them ready for work this coming weekend. Another shop told me 2 weeks and about $100 per cylinder which is why I was considering rebuilding them myself.


Here are some pics. After I installed the loader I discovered that the bucket would not hold weight so the bucket cylinders needed to be rebuilt. My plan was to do them myself but I found a shop with very quick service and reasonable prices. I store some of my tractors in those snowmobile trailers.


I assume it may be a gear pump that is worn. If so, it may be better to replace the pump rather than rebuild it with new bearings, chamber and gears if the parts are even available. Has anyone rebuilt or replaced the hydraulic pump on an ARK 550 loader? I do have an extra pump from a Quick Way loader. Not sure if it will work.


Glenn, I bought the loader for my D-200 without being able to test it. They are hard to find and it was not that far away so I bought it anyway. I paid $1,500 for it. They are not that complicated. The only problem I am running into besides the issues with the loader itself is the lack of four wheel drive traction. When the bucket is full, and even with a ballast box on the back, sometimes the rear wheel will spin if I am on sand (beach) or an incline. The loader makes a great stump puller for the land I am clearing and the smaller stumps around 1 inch diameter. I bought a device that grabs the stump and I tie it to the loader with a rope. Raise the loader arms and up comes the stump.


The Wheel Horse tractors with loaders are good for the lighter duty work but four wheel drive traction is the way to go for the heavier duty work where more traction is needed. Too bad Wheel Horse did not provide a differential lock of some kind to give us at least two wheel drive.


Actually, I was referring to the use of my Quick Way Loader for pulling stumps. I have not gotten to that point yet with the ARK loader. Everything works fine with the ARK loader when I first start up the tractor. After about 15 minutes of run time it wimps out and will not lift the bucket or even tilt the bucket properly. I know the bucket cylinders are good since they were just repacked. If I let it sit for several hours it will lift the bucket. Maybe after the fluid heats up and the fluid thins out a little the wear in the pump becomes evident. I also used hydraulic fluid that comes with anti freeze in it which may thin out the fluid a little. The ARK may work OK with a thicker hydraulic fluid to overcome the wear in the pump?


View our library of instruction manuals for help with Product Assembly. Instruction manuals are listed alphabetically. Please scroll through the list to find the manual you are looking for. Click on the link to download a PDF of the instruction manual. If you cannot find the manual for the toy you are looking for please give us a call at 1-800-321-0183. Little Tikes offers replacements parts for purchase on select products. Click here to visit our Replacement Parts website.


Your vehicle shouldn't lose automatic transmission fluid in normal operation, so if the level is down, there's a good chance there's a leak somewhere. Consult a service professional immediately to have it addressed to avoid possible damage to the transmission. Also, some automatic transmissions do not have dipsticks or may require that a service professional inspect the automatic transmission fluid level. Check the vehicle's owner's or service manual.


Note: These instructions are intended as general guidelines. Please consult your owner's or service manual for specific instructions on changing the oil and filter on your vehicle. Use extreme caution when lifting or jacking any vehicle.


4WD utility tractors are one of the most common models found on farms. Smaller sized models are referred to as Compact Utility Tractors (CUT). They are primarily used to tow auxiliary equipment. However, they are also good for landscaping and property maintenance tasks. These tractors have low to medium horsepower ratings. The typical utility machine will have 20 to 50 HP. They can also be fitted with a front-end loader and may have a hydraulic, three-point hitch for plows.


Where possible, the drivers applicable to each device or classof devices is listed. If the driver in question has a manual pagein the FreeBSD base distribution (most should), it is referencedhere. Information on specific models of supported devices,controllers, etc. can be found in the manual pages.


Note: The device lists in this document are beinggenerated automatically from FreeBSD manual pages. This means thatsome devices, which are supported by multiple drivers, may appearmultiple times.


This document tries to provide a starting point for those who want to run FreeBSD onan Alpha-based machine. It is aimed at providing background information on the varioushardware designs. It is not a replacement for the systems manuals.


Using 8 SIMMs for a 256bit wide memory can yield interesting speedups over a 4SIMM/128bit wide memory. Obviously all 8 SIMMs must be of the same type to make thiswork. The system must be explicitly setup to use the 8 SIMM memory arrangement. You musthave 8 SIMMs, 4 SIMMs distributed over 2 banks will not work. For the AlphaPC164 you canhave a maximum of 1Gbyte of RAM, using 8 128Mbyte SIMMs. The manual indicates the maximumis 512 Mbyte.


AS600 has a peculiarity for its PCI slots. AS600 (or rather the PCI expansion cardcontaining the SCSI adapters) does not allow I/O port mapping, therefore all devicesbehind it must use memory mapping. If you have problems getting the Qlogic SCSI adaptersto work, add the following option to /boot/loader.rc:


Where possible, the drivers applicable to each device or class of devices is listed.If the driver in question has a manual page in the FreeBSD base distribution (mostshould), it is referenced here. Information on specific models of supported devices,controllers, etc. can be found in the manual pages. 2ff7e9595c


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